SS26 Opens With a Wave of Designer Debuts Across Major Fashion Houses
This season’s SS26 shows mark a rare moment in fashion history, with nearly every major house debuting a new creative director and setting the stage for a year of reinvention
Key creative director debuts to watch
September marks the start of fashion’s most anticipated season. With New York Fashion Week having unveiled the SS26 collections, the spotlight now turns to Europe, where a wave of high-profile creative director debuts is set to shape the months ahead. From Gucci and Balenciaga to Chanel and Versace, the industry’s most powerful houses are preparing to begin new chapters.
This year stands out not only for its scale but also for its weight. Veteran designers have stepped aside, and their successors now carry the responsibility of shaping the next chapter in fashion’s global story.
Demna at Gucci — September 23, Milan
Demna’s move to Gucci, announced only weeks after his exit from Balenciaga, is among the season’s most anticipated moments. With little preparation time and Italian ateliers closed through much of August, the debut is expected to be a concentrated presentation rather than a full collection. Speculation of a 1990s revival has only grown after his husband shared, then deleted, an Instagram post featuring pieces from Gucci’s Tom Ford era.
Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander — September 24, Milan
The next day brings Simone Bellotti’s debut at Jil Sander. After spending 16 years at Gucci under Frida Giannini and Alessandro Michele, he now steps into the position left by Luke and Lucie Meier earlier this year. His task will be to honor the house’s minimalist heritage while infusing it with a modern perspective.
Dario Vitale at Versace — September 26, Milan
Dario Vitale, who spent many years on Miu Miu’s design team, will take over from Donatella Versace as she becomes chief brand ambassador after 27 years as creative director. His debut is planned as an intimate presentation rather than a large-scale runway show, signaling a more measured transition. Julia Roberts’ appearance in his early designs at the Venice Film Festival hints at a refined and pared-back vision of Versace.
Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta — September 27, Milan
Louise Trotter, formerly of Carven and Joseph, is set to unveil her first collection for Bottega Veneta. She takes over from Matthieu Blazy, who has moved on to Chanel. Louise has already previewed her vision on the red carpet, dressing Julianne Moore and Vicky Krieps at Cannes. Her debut will define how she plans to build on Bottega’s legacy of craftsmanship and quiet luxury.
Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler — October 2, Paris
Mugler begins a new chapter under Miguel Castro Freitas, the former Sportmax director who also worked with Galliano, Pilati, Elbaz, and Simons. He succeeds Casey Cadwallader, who defined the brand for seven years. Miguel is expected to emphasize sharper tailoring and structure, marking a departure from the sculptural sensuality that characterized his predecessor’s era.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe — October 3, Paris
The former Proenza Schouler duo will step into Loewe, succeeding Jonathan Anderson after his move to Dior. Their arrival raises a pivotal question for the house: will Loewe continue in the experimental spirit shaped by Jonathan, or shift toward the pragmatic elegance that has long defined Jack and Lazaro’s approach?
RELATED: Goodbye, Jonathan Anderson—Meet Loewe’s New Creative Minds
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga — October 4, Paris
Pierpaolo Piccioli, who left Valentino in 2024, will unveil his first collection for Balenciaga. His arrival comes after Demna’s move to Gucci and is expected to usher in a stylistic change. While Demna focused on disruption and subcultural references, Pierpaolo is likely to draw on Balenciaga’s historic strengths in silhouette and construction.
Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier — October 5, Paris
Dutch designer Duran Lantink, celebrated for his provocative and experimental style, steps in as the first permanent creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier after years of rotating guest designers. His appointment signals a new chapter of stability for the house, one that is expected to carry forward Gaultier’s spirit of provocation and play.
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel — October 6, Paris
The season will close with Matthieu’s debut at Chanel, among the year’s most anticipated moments. Following his acclaimed tenure at Bottega Veneta, Blazy takes on one of fashion’s most closely watched roles. Chanel has not confirmed whether Ayo Edebiri’s recent custom red-carpet look was his work, but the speculation has only intensified anticipation for his Paris debut.
MORE: Is It Finally Time for a Chanel Menswear Line?
A defining season
Nearly every major fashion capital will see a debut, each charged with questions of legacy and expectation. From Demna’s recalibration at Gucci to Matthieu’s high-stakes arrival at Chanel, the season positions clothing as inseparable from the questions it provokes: What does heritage mean today? Who defines luxury in the 2020s? And how can designers reconcile continuity with change?
Demna, formerly of Balenciaga, will make his debut at Gucci on September 23 during Milan Fashion Week. His first collection is highly anticipated and rumored to reference Tom Ford’s 1990s Gucci era.
Matthieu Blazy, previously at Bottega Veneta, is set to present his first collection for Chanel on October 6 in Paris. His debut is one of the most significant moments of the SS26 season.
SS26 is marked by a rare number of designer debuts at major houses including Gucci, Balenciaga, Chanel, Versace, and Bottega Veneta. These shifts signal a major transition period for global fashion.
Dario Vitale, who spent 15 years working under Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu, has taken over as Versace’s creative director. Donatella now serves as the brand’s chief ambassador after 27 years leading design.
Pierpaolo Piccioli will present his first collection for Balenciaga on October 4 in Paris. His arrival follows Demna’s move to Gucci and is expected to mark a new era for the brand.
Photos courtesy Instagram
