How Southeast Asia’s Street Food Scene Thrives in the Michelin Guide
While there are only two street food establishments in the region that have a Michelin star, many are recognized by the guide for offering great food without breaking the bank
Street cred
It’s with our street food where Southeast Asians find the most comfort in our cuisine. Nowhere else in the world is street food so integral to daily life, whether it’s picking up a quick breakfast while commuting to work or finding a snack after a night of drinking.
The Michelin Guide, prestigious as it is, has made strides to be more inclusive of the culinary and cultural role that street food plays. When the guide launched in Singapore in 2016, it awarded stars to two locations for the first time: Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, the latter of which still holds its star to this day. The former, while losing its star in 2021, has since expanded internationally, now better known as Hawker Chan.
Currently, only two street food establishments hold a Michelin star in Southeast Asia: Bangkok’s Jay Fai, known for their eponymous goggled chef cooking up kai jeaw poo (crab omelette) and tom yum goong (prawn tom yum soup), and the previously mentioned Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Singapore, known for its signature bak chor mee (noodles with minced pork).
While stars have been the main badge of honor that many restaurants aspire to attain, the Michelin Guide also awards certain establishments with the Bib Gourmand distinction. Since 1997, the Bib Gourmand has been awarded to restaurants that offer “great food [that] doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag.” It’s in this category that many Southeast Asian street food stalls thrive, and where the diversity of our cuisines can truly shine.
There are currently over a hundred street food locations in Southeast Asia with the Bib Gourmand distinction. Many of which offer some classic dishes that each country is known for, while others offer flavors that many are yet to be familiar with.
Singapore
Two highlight stalls can be found at the Yuhua Village Market and Food Centre: Fei Fei Roasted Noodle and Heng Heng Cooked Food.
Fei Fei Roasted Noodle serves up roasted meats and dumplings, best known for their duck leg with shrimp wonton noodles. Meanwhile, Heng Heng Cooked Food offers aromatic laksa and prawn mee (prawn noodle soup) that can come in three different sizes depending on your appetite or party size.
Thailand
Launching its own Michelin Guide in 2018, Thailand boasts many Bib Gourmand locations scattered throughout its cities. In Bangkok, you can find Somsak Pu Ob (Charoen Rat) serving up delectable steamed crab and prawns over glass noodles. The rich juices from the crab and prawns imbue the glass noodles with unmatched flavor, making this a popular stop for locals.
When exploring Chiang Mai, dine with the locals at Sanpakoi Kanomjeen at the Thongkam Market. The spot is known for its kanomjeen (fresh rice vermicelli) served with various curries and toppings. Open since 1977, the stall offers unlimited side vegetables for its curry dishes. You can even swap out the noodles for rice, if you prefer.
For those looking for something on the sweet side, A Pong Mae Sunee in Phuket is a must-try with their signature coconut crepes. Located in Talat Yai, Mueang Phuket, their crepes are cooked over charcoal using a wok, creating a crispy shell that brings out the sweetness of the coconut batter.
Vietnam
Having just released their first local Michelin Guide in 2023, Vietnam is a sure standout in street food. To tick off your standard Vietnamese fare, our Bib Gourmand journey starts in Hanoi. Phở Khôi Hói, found along Hang Vai Street, Hang Bo Ward, covers your pho cravings with its many choices of beef cuts to fill your bowl. Fun fact: Khôi Hói means ‘bald head’ in Vietnamese, in reference to the owner’s hairstyle—or lack of.
If bún chả (grilled pork and noodles) is your preferred noodle dish, Tuyết Bún Chả 34 is your go-to spot in Hanoi. Located along Hang Than Street, Nguyen Trung Truc Ward, their grilled pork comes with a rich savory broth to dip your noodles in, along with a side of leafy vegetables for some crisp freshness. If you’re looking for an added crunch to your meal, order their fried spring rolls, which also pair well with the broth.
Moving on down south to Ho Chi Minh, Bún Bò Huế 14B serves its namesake dish of rice noodles with sliced beef. Located at Street 46, Ward 2, District 4, this take-out only stall offers a lush noodle dish originating from Central Vietnam (Huế) with a broth made with onion, beef, and pork bones.
If you want a break from the noodles, Cơm Tấm Ba Ghiền in Ho Chi Minh’s Phu Nhuan District offers cơm tấm (broken rice) meals topped with large grilled pork chops. This hefty meal comes with a side of pickled vegetables and a sweet fish sauce dip. You can also add on to your plate, such as a fried egg and bì heo (shredded pork skin).
Malaysia
Malaysia also launched their first edition of the Michelin Guide in 2023. With it comes an assortment of Bib Gourmand spots that highlight its vast street food culture.
In Kuala Lumpur, you can find Jalan Ipoh Claypot Chicken Rice along Jalan Batu Ambar which has been serving the classic claypot dish for over 30 years. The street side eatery can get crowded at peak lunchtime, so it’s best to come early. Their signature claypot chicken rice comes with lap cheong (Chinese sausage), ginger, and a crispy rice crust underneath that adds a delectable texture and flavor.
Wong Mei Kee is another popular KL spot known for its siew yok (roast pork with crackling skin and juicy meat). Located at Jalan Nyonya, Pudu, they’re only open for a few hours a day, from 12nn to 3pm, so come as early as you can.
George Town in Penang is also home to a number of Bib Gourmand spots, a highlight being Sister Yao’s Char Koay Kak, along Lorong Macalister. The stall serves char koay kak (fried rice cakes), a popular Teochew street food made with radish, egg, bean sprouts, and a savory mix of dark soy sauce and fish sauce.
The Philippines and Indonesia
While restaurants in Indonesia and the Philippines have yet to be featured in the Michelin Guide, that won’t stop us from listing some spots worth trying.
In Jakarta, Nasi Goreng Kambing Kebon Sirih has been serving its signature mutton fried rice since 1958, becoming a long-time favorite for locals. If it’s satay you’re after, Sate Padang Ajo Ramon in the Kebayoran Baru district can satisfy your cravings with an added kick. It serves up a variety of spiced beef skewers, from meat to tongue and intestines, all served on a plate doused with rich gravy.
In the Philippines, you can take a food crawl around Manila’s Binondo district, considered the oldest Chinatown in the world. There’s the Shanghai Fried Siopao that serves steamed buns with a crusty fried bottom, filled with juicy pork and herbs. In the province of Pampanga, you can chow down on a sizzling plate of sisig, a local dish made with minced grilled pork cheek, onions, chillies, and calamansi juice (Philippine lime). A famous spot for sisig is Aling Lucing’s in Angeles City. The rich pork dish is usually eaten with rice as a meal, or with beer as bar chow.
A worthy distinction
More than just the recognition and prestige that the Michelin Guide offers, it’s the inclusion of street food and the Bib Gourmand distinction that allow many wandering diners to explore the diverse flavors we offer.
As the late Anthony Bourdain once said, “food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma. It’s inseparable from those from the get-go.”
This story appears on the pages of VMAN SEA Volume 03. Get your copy now!
Banner photo courtesy Thuan Pham
