Where is Versace headed next?
Versace enters a decisive crossroads, caught between its storied past and the strategic choreography of its new life under the Prada Group
A fast rewrite of Versace’s future
Versace’s next chapter arrived with unusual speed. Two days after Prada Group completed its acquisition of the Milan-based house, the company confirmed that Dario Vitale will exit his role on December 12.
The decision was described as mutual, although the timing aligned closely with plans the group had been setting in motion for months. Until a successor is named, Versace’s design team will report directly to chief executive Emmanuel Gintzburger.
The move underscores Prada’s intent to reposition Versace with leadership of its own choosing. Dario, hired under former parent Capri Holdings, delivered a debut collection that drew strong retail interest, yet Prada leadership remained cautious.
Executives did not see a clear fit between his aesthetic and a brand they acquired for 1.25 billion euros. Investor calls throughout the year hinted at a reluctance to elevate someone whose previous work at Miu Miu placed him in a supporting role rather than in a creative director position that requires a fully formed vision.
Whispers turned into certainty
The timing of Dario’s departure followed months of speculation, especially as market sources suggested that Prada had made a decision about his future long before the acquisition closed. The company is believed to be considering more experienced creative leaders. Analysts say Prada wants stability as it works to rebuild a house that has struggled to maintain commercial momentum in recent years.
The sale to Prada represents the second ownership shift since 2018, when Donatella Versace sold the company to Michael Kors Holdings, which later became Capri Holdings. Donatella, who stepped back from her creative director role in 2025, continues to serve as chief brand ambassador. Her public endorsement of the Prada transaction added symbolic weight to the transition.
In an Instagram post on the anniversary of Gianni Versace’s birth, she marked the occasion as the day Versace joined the Prada family and shared archival images of Gianni with Miuccia Prada in a moment of early creative camaraderie.
A debut that sparked a jolt of energy
Dario’s debut collection, staged at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana museum, created early buzz with a vivid reinterpretation of 80s glamour. Retailers praised the energy and confidence of the designs, and the collection was positioned firmly in the luxury tier.
Yet the show also revealed uncertainty among longtime customers, some of whom were unsure how the new direction aligned with the brand’s identity. The mixed response contributed to lingering questions about his long-term fit.
While names like Riccardo Tisci, Pieter Mulier, and Hedi Slimane circulate in industry conversations, there is no indication that any frontrunner has emerged. Executives maintain that Miuccia will not be involved in Versace’s creative output. Observers also continue to debate whether Donatella’s role might evolve, although there is little evidence that Prada plans to reverse her succession.
A rebuild that favors patience over haste
The acquisition has placed Versace at a turning point. Under Prada Group, the brand gains institutional support and a renewed push for relevance in a crowded luxury market. The road ahead will likely be measured rather than swift, shaped by decisions that balance commercial demands and clear creative direction.
For now, Versace remains in transition, awaiting the announcement that will define its next era.
Dario Vitale, the brand’s chief creative officer, will exit Versace on December 12. His departure comes shortly after Prada Group completed its acquisition of the house.
Prada Group decided to pursue a more experienced creative director to guide the brand under its new ownership. Dario was originally hired under previous owner Capri Holdings, and the decision reflects Prada’s strategic vision for Versace.
Prada Group aims to reposition Versace with a clear focus on its core codes, high-end ready-to-wear, and expanded accessories. Executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli and CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger will oversee the transition until a new creative director is named.
Yes, Donatella Versace continues to serve as chief brand ambassador. While she no longer leads creative direction, she has publicly endorsed the transition and will support the brand’s next phase.
Vitale’s first collection debuted in 2025, and the brand’s upcoming collections will continue under the guidance of the Prada Group. A new creative director is expected to define the future direction, but no official announcement has been made yet.
Photos courtesy Versace
