SS26 Debuts That Defined the Season, Ranked by Earned Media Value
After a year of upheaval and creative reshuffling, the SS26 debut season revealed which new designers truly captured attention, not just on the runway but across the wider cultural conversation
A season of high stakes
The SS26 season arrived at a moment of unusual intensity for fashion. After a year defined by economic pressure, abrupt creative exits, and widespread restructuring, debut collections carried more weight than usual.
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One way to track that attention was through Earned Media Value, or EMV, defined as the advertising spend equivalent of the impressions generated across digital and social platforms.
Measured by EMV, the most engaging debuts of the season formed a clear hierarchy. Jean Paul Gaultier by Duran Lantink placed tenth, followed by Mugler under Miguel Castro Freitas at ninth.
Versace by Dario Vitale ranked eighth, while Glenn Martens’ debut at Maison Margiela came in seventh. Loewe, now led by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, placed sixth.
Louis Trotter’s first season at Bottega Veneta ranked fifth, with Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga debut close behind at fourth.
Gucci by Demna Gvasalia placed third, Chanel by Matthieu Blazy second, and Dior by Jonathan Anderson claimed the top position.
Dior dominates
It is difficult to discuss debuts this season without focusing on Jonathan. His arrival at Dior had been preceded by months of speculation and industry scrutiny.
When his first collection finally showed, it generated the highest EMV of the season at $90.6 million. The figure reflected sustained engagement and positioned Dior as the central point of conversation during the SS26 cycle.
Across the houses
Matthieu’s Chanel debut followed with $42.8 million in EMV. Having left Bottega Veneta to take on one of fashion’s most scrutinized roles, he entered Chanel with expectations shaped by both heritage and commerce. The response suggested strong interest and cautious confidence from audiences still adjusting to a new creative chapter for the house.
Elsewhere, the rankings revealed how attention is distributed in a crowded debut landscape. Demna’s Gucci maintained a high level of visibility at third place, underscoring the brand’s continued ability to dominate digital conversation.
Pierpaolo’s Balenciaga debut at fourth reflected curiosity around how his design language would translate to a house known for disruption. Louis’ Bottega Veneta debut at fifth aligned with broader critical reception and reinforced her early positioning as one of the season’s most closely watched new appointments.
Stability or uncertainty?
These results arrive after what many in the industry describe as an exhausting twelve months. Financial pressure has accelerated leadership changes across major houses, activating a defensive posture that prioritizes recognizability and proven creative identities. Debut collections have become tests of reassurance as much as innovation.
Whether these creative shifts will translate into long term stability remains uncertain. EMV captures attention, not endurance.
Still, the SS26 debut season made one thing clear. In a moment of industry wide recalibration, fashion continues to rally around designers who offer a sense of direction, even as the outcome of these new chapters remains unresolved.
Jonathan Anderson had the most successful debut of the SS26 season with his first collection for Dior, generating the highest Earned Media Value at $90.6 million.
The top debuts of SS26 included Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, and Louis Trotter at Bottega Veneta.
Earned Media Value, or EMV, measures the value of media coverage and social media impressions, estimating what it would cost to buy the same exposure through advertising.
Debuts were closely watched this season due to industry upheavals, with designers tasked with capturing attention and pioneering the direction of major fashion houses.
