Loewe Without Jonathan Anderson? Let’s Look Back at His Most Unforgettable Collections

Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe after 11 years. The announcement is official, but the whispers in Paris are louder: he’s already at Dior, allegedly deep into the Spring 2026 menswear collection.

If true, it’s the kind of move that feels both shocking and inevitable—because if there’s one thing Jonathan has proven, it’s that he knows how to make fashion feel like an event.

In his time at Loewe, he did the impossible: turned a leather goods house into one of the most conceptually thrilling fashion brands of the era.

Surrealism? Precision tailoring? Literal grass growing from clothes? Jonathan made it happen.

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And while we wait to see how he translates his vision to Dior, let’s take a moment for his Loewe legacy.

These are five of his best collections—proof that, wherever he goes, the world will follow.

Spring 2023 Menswear

The runway looked like something out of a fever dream. Models walked in shoes, coats, even jeans—sprouting actual grass.

It was a collaboration with Spanish bio-designer Paula Ulargui Escalona, a literal fusion of the organic and the fabricated.

The set itself looked almost computer-generated, blurring the line between reality and simulation.

In a moment where fashion was obsessed with tech and AI, Jonathan’s take was almost philosophical: what happens when nature fights back?

Fall 2023 Menswear

For Jonathan, minimalism was never about doing less, but about making every choice count. This collection proved it.

The full metal jackets—sculpted from copper and pewter—were pure alchemy, a textile experiment at its wildest.

The boxer-style shorts brought in a quiet sensuality. And then there were the draped coats, falling over shoulders like something out of a Renaissance painting.

The effect was a collection that felt intimate but untouchable, like an artifact from the future.

Spring 2025 Menswear

Jonathan called it his “masterclass in pattern making.”

What that looked like: razor-sharp and perfectly draped garments that felt impossibly engineered.

He built the show around the works of artists he admired—Carlo Scarpa, Charles Rennie Mackintosh—people who knew a thing or two about precision.

The result was slim and structured silhouettes that felt very French, very severe.

But then came the feathers, swooping across faces, making models look slightly inhuman. Eerie precision. Unsettling perfection.

Fall/Winter 2022 Menswear

Post-pandemic, fashion was obsessed with the metaverse. Jonathan, instead of feeding into the hype, decided to mock it.

The collection looked like someone had taken a liquify tool to reality—clothes melted, warped, twisted like bad Photoshop edits.

It was surrealism with a smirk, an almost satirical take on digital fashion’s glossy and artificial promise.

When marketing campaigns were breathlessly pushing Web3, Jonathan’s Loewe was saying: “Sure, but what if it’s all just a little ridiculous?”

Fall 2019 Menswear

His first Loewe menswear show. The set: an ochre cloth sculpture by Franz Erhard Walther.

The clothes: fisherman references, 80s nostalgia, and an attempt to unmake the fetishization of chaps (which, if anyone could do, it was Jonathan).

It was about basics, but reconstructed—an early sign of what he’d do for the brand.

Looking back, it feels almost restrained compared to what came after. But you can see the seeds of everything: the drama, the humor, the precision.

The way he could take something simple and make it unforgettable.

What now?

Loewe will move on, and Jonathan will (probably) be at Dior. But his impact is permanent.

He made fashion feel strange again. He played with perception, pushed silhouettes into surrealism, made us question what luxury even meant.

Wherever he lands next, it won’t just be about clothes. It’ll be about a world he’s building. And we’ll all be watching.

Photos courtesy Loewe