Jazz Shoes Might Be the Coolest Shoes of the Year
The coolest shoe of the season wasn’t designed for the street, but that’s exactly where it’s headed
- Jazz shoes are emerging as fashion’s next it-shoe, fueled by CELINE’s sold-out lace-up leather ballet flats and the industry’s shift toward slimmer footwear.
- The silhouette traces back to 1920s dance shoes and Rose Repetto’s iconic Zizi, famously worn by Serge Gainsbourg and later embraced as a symbol of Parisian style.
- With brands embracing minimalist silhouettes, jazz shoes are poised to become the season’s defining footwear trend.
The trend report
Fashion’s next obsession isn’t a sneaker. It isn’t a loafer either. If the latest runways are any indication, the humble jazz shoe is stepping into the spotlight, led by CELINE‘s already sold-out lace-up ballet flats.
Every fashion cycle has a defining shoe. There was Balenciaga’s Triple S for the era of maximalism and the adidas x Wales Bonner Samba for the sportswear boom. The models change, but the formula rarely does. The biggest shoes of the moment tend to take something familiar and twist it just enough to feel new.
The shoe everyone will want soon
CELINE’s latest lace-up flats follow that same playbook. Debuting in Michael Rider’s first menswear collection for the French house, the shoes reinterpret the classic Oxford through an impossibly slim silhouette.
Cut low across the foot and crafted in buttery lambskin with an almost invisible sole, they feel like leather gloves for your feet. They were even presented scuffed in the showroom, too. Unsurprisingly, they’re already disappearing from shelves.
Despite the buzz, CELINE didn’t invent the idea. It simply revived one of fashion’s most overlooked silhouettes.
The original jazz shoe
The shoe traces its roots to a dance staple developed in the United States during the 1920s and 1930s. Before sneakers became everyday footwear, dancers performing the Foxtrot and Boogie Woogie needed something that moved with them.
Traditional Oxfords offered structure, while ballet slippers were too delicate. Jazz shoes landed somewhere in between.
The silhouette found a second life in the 1970s when French shoemaker Rose Repetto introduced the Zizi. Softer than a dress shoe but sharper than a ballet flat, it became inseparable from Serge Gainsbourg’s signature wardrobe and later found fans in Mick Jagger and the wider beatnik crowd.
The Zizi came to embody a distinctly Parisian brand of masculinity: relaxed, intellectual, slightly rebellious, and never trying too hard.
Why they’re trending again
The rise of ballet sneakers, barely-there loafers, and paper-thin soles marks a point where comfort no longer comes at the expense of tailoring. These lace-up flats happen to sit at the center of two trends shaping menswear right now: slim shoes and slightly offbeat silhouettes.
The rest of the industry is already catching up. Jacquemus and Bottega Veneta have all introduced their own interpretations, while labels such as Jil Sander and Dries Van Noten continue exploring lace-up flats and softened derbies.
Even the resurgence of niche styles like Vibram’s FiveFingers suggests fashion is embracing shoes that challenge conventional proportions. They may not appeal to everyone, but neither did the Triple S before it became unavoidable.
Every it-shoe starts with a little skepticism. The jazz shoe feels poised for the same trajectory. It is nostalgic without feeling retro and just unusual enough to stand out in a sea of predictable sneakers.
CELINE may have sparked the conversation, but the real story is bigger than one brand. After years dominated by oversized soles and athletic silhouettes, fashion appears ready to dance to a different rhythm. And this time, it’s doing it in jazz shoes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Jazz shoes are lightweight lace-up shoes originally designed for jazz dance in the 1920s and 1930s. Their soft construction and flexible fit have recently inspired a new wave of fashion footwear.
Jazz shoes are gaining attention because they align with fashion’s move toward minimalist footwear. CELINE’s lace-up leather ballet flats, introduced in Michael Rider’s recent collection, have helped bring the silhouette back into the spotlight.
Yes. While CELINE’s design offers a modern interpretation, it draws heavily from the classic jazz shoe silhouette, particularly the iconic Repetto Zizi that became popular in the 1970s.
Alongside CELINE, brands including Jacquemus, Jil Sander, and Dries Van Noten have introduced their own versions of soft lace-up flats and deconstructed dress shoes.
Absolutely. Modern jazz shoe-inspired styles are designed for everyday wear and pair well with everything from tailored trousers to relaxed denim, making them one of the season’s most versatile footwear trends.
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