Beyond a revival, this iconic ‘80s wristwatch is getting a style refresh
The Louis Vuitton Monterey revisits the Maison’s founding, horological vision, and audacious spirit – reinterpreting an era-defining watch and coveted, cult piece of today
How does the Louis Vuitton Monterey differ from its predecessors?
Louis Vuitton unveils the Monterey, a limited-edition timepiece that revives the Maison’s first-ever wristwatch initially released in the 1980s. A cult phenomenon and collector favorite, the original LV I and LV II creations, crafted in a signature pebble shape, were designed by the visionary architect Gae Aulenti.
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton now elevates the signature design codes of this icon, now coming in yellow gold paired with a white enamel dial that recalls the original graphic footprint. The quartz caliber from the original heritage pieces is also replaced by an in-house automatic movement. The watch is limited to 188 pieces.
“Reinterpreting a creation means respecting its design and spirit. We maintain the same graphic codes, but strive for a more modern and elevated feel,” says Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
A tribute to the unconventional
Back in 1988, Aulenti worked with Louis Vuitton to create the avant-garde LV I and LV II wristwatches. Embracing the Maison’s spirit of travel with a railway track and date displays, GMT and world time function, the 40mm LV I is crafted in a lug-free pebble shape, in either white or yellow gold. A crown is set distinctly at 12 o’clock, as a nod to pocket watches. The LV II is a smaller, 37mm version produced in scratch-resistant ceramic in either black or green, displaying the date and time with an added alarm function.
Collectors were drawn to the striking designs, a fascination further underscored by the nickname the watch is affectionately given: the Monterey. The name takes after the American pronunciation of montre (French for wristwatch), as the LV I and LV II were originally referred to as Montre 1 and Montre 2.
Nearly four decades later, the original 1988 LV I and LV II pieces are finding a new audience. Monterey watches have been spotted on the wrists of today’s tastemakers and trendsetters, while at the Louis Vuitton’s Womenswear Fall-Winter 2025 runway show in Paris, Artistic Director of Women’s collection Nicolas Ghesquière accented his ready-to-wear pieces with LV II watches from 1988.
A bold reinterpretation
Revisiting the bold aesthetic and innovative spirit of the Maison’s debut timepiece, the Louis Vuitton Monterey is a purist yet audacious reinterpretation of an icon. The design’s founding codes and features have now been elevated via the expertise of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
Featuring a 39mm, yellow gold, pebble-shape case that is paired with a glossy Grand Feu enamel dial, the watch is powered by an in-house automatic movement that replaces the original quartz caliber. The new minimalist, time-only watch retains the graphic nature of the heritage piece in the red and blue accents of its twin hour and minute scales.
“This watch represents a symbiosis between the old and present, respecting the design and spirit of the original while reinterpreting it for today.” says Matthieu. “We retained the polished ‘pebble’ spirit, the unique leather attachment, and the iconic crown at twelve o’clock, all hallmarks of the 1988 Monterey. This white enamel, with its enamel decals, is not only a tribute to enduring craftsmanship but also offers a brilliance, tone and warmth that will last over time.”
By honoring the past while embracing modernity, the Maison has created a timepiece that is both timeless and forward-looking, a testament to enduring craftsmanship – and a legacy of savoir-faire reimagined for today.
To know more about how the Louis Vuitton Monterey was created, visit the Maison’s official website.
