The Popped Collar Is Back—And It’s Weirdly Chic This Time

The return of the popped collar

At the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear shows in Milan and Paris, one styling detail stood out across runways and front rows alike: the return of the popped collar. Once tied to preppy Americana with Vineyard Vines polos, khaki shorts, and boat shoes, the upturned collar has taken on new meaning in some of the season’s most forward-thinking collections.

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Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior Men in Paris marked the clearest signal of this shift. Among the precisely tailored silhouettes and sculptural layering, the designer styled many of his shirts and jackets with one collar edge standing up and the other resting flat. It wasn’t theatrical, but it was deliberate. The asymmetric pop added a subtle tension to otherwise clean looks, introducing a small disruption to classic menswear codes. It was a detail that might be missed in still images but was impossible to ignore in person.

It caught on fast. Robert Pattinson, Joe Alwyn, and Josh O’Connor, along with many other guests seated in the front row, arrived with their collars already popped. In Josh’s case, a woman from his team adjusted his shirt collar for the cameras as he stepped out of the car, suggesting the detail was part of the visual brief for the day. The one-sided collar lift quickly became one of the most talked about styling moves of the week. It was easy to copy but took intention to pull off well.

Elsewhere in Paris, Craig Green explored the motif in his signature language of conceptual outerwear, often using sculptural collars that stood away from the body. Willy Chavarria applied a similar upright structure to his tailoring, emphasizing strength and presence. Brands like Doublet and Sacai also offered their own takes on the popped collar. Some were sharp and architectural, while others leaned more relaxed and effortless. The tone varied, but the styling cue stayed consistent.

A recurring trend with new energy

Of course, this isn’t the first time the look has cycled back. Miu Miu already featured popped collars in its ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The execution leaned more playful in that case, but the principle stayed the same: a small tweak to a basic shirt that could shift the entire attitude of a look.

There’s also a practical side to the popped collar that’s often overlooked in fashion reporting. Historically, the upturned collar served a functional purpose in sports like tennis and golf, offering sun protection and promoting airflow across the neck. Over time, it shifted from utility to style, becoming a visual shorthand for a certain kind of casual privilege. But what’s happening now feels less like nostalgia and more like a reframe of a familiar gesture. In 2025, the popped collar isn’t ironic. It’s intentional.

Jonathan’s use of the popped collar at Dior reflects his broader design ethos: taking the familiar and making it feel slightly off-balance, yet still refined. The single-sided collar acts as both a callback and a new proposition. It suggests that elegance no longer relies on symmetry, and that even the smallest detail can carry the weight of a concept.

What sets this trend apart is its accessibility. It doesn’t rely on expensive fabrics or new-season pieces. All it takes is a shirt and a choice. The popped collar spreads easily, adapts quickly, and still carries meaning. In other words, the look is back, but not in the way you remember it.

Photos courtesy Dior, Craig Green, Willy Chavarria, Miu Miu, Sacai