What to Wear Below the Tux: The Season’s Best Formal Shoe Trends

What’s equally important as the tuxedo itself, when dressing for a black-tie night, is the shoe. It grounds the entire look and defines the silhouette. They no longer exist merely to complement the suit but to express individuality and even humor.

The new rules of formalwear are all about personality, and nowhere is that more visible than in this season’s leading trends.

1. Croc skin

Crocodile skin has re-emerged as a favorite among people who appreciate its glamour. Once associated with the opulence of mid-century power dressing, the crocodile texture now feels fresh again, paired with cleaner shapes and darker tones. The new croc skin shoe complements both the sharp tailoring of a classic tux and the more relaxed drape of modern suits.

2. Creepers

Creepers, on the other hand, bring in a different energy. Originally a post-war streetwear staple and later a symbol of British punk, the thick-soled silhouette has returned to eveningwear in high-shine iterations. Think patent leather with exaggerated proportions or matte black suede with subtle platform lifts. Creepers are for the ones who want their formality to come with an edge.

3. Fisherman sandals

Then there are fisherman sandals, a surprising yet welcome entry into the formalwear conversation. What was once casual summer footwear has been adapted for tailored evenings, case in point Robert Pattinson. Their woven straps and open-air structure provide contrast to the density of evening fabrics.

4. Flat-toe shoes

Flat-toe shoes are the counterpoint to creepers. With squared fronts and clean lines, they feel architectural and recall the pared-down simplicity of minimalism but with a contemporary sharpness that aligns with the return of sleek tailoring. When paired with slim trousers or narrow lapels, flat-toe shoes complete the look, complementing its streamlined silhouette.

5. Woven leather shoes

Woven leather shoes, meanwhile, emphasize craftsmanship. The weaving technique adds depth and tactility to otherwise formal silhouettes, bringing warmth and humanity into eveningwear. They move easily from polished to relaxed, depending on how they’re styled.

The woven structure also hints at heritage qualities increasingly valued in a world of mass production. Designers like Bottega Veneta and Tod’s have reintroduced woven loafers and derbies into their formal lines, suggesting that texture may be the new signifier of sophistication.

6. Wrinkled leather

Perhaps the most intriguing development of all is the rise of wrinkled leather. Once dismissed as a flaw, the creased finish now reads as luxurious. I think it’s the sartorial equivalent of a linen suit.

Wrinkled leather shoes reject the stiffness of traditional evening footwear and offer a sense of ease. They feel lived-in, as though they’ve already accompanied their wearer through a few unforgettable nights out.

Together, these six shoe trends signal a turning point in how formality is approached. The black-tie code is now being reinterpreted. Whether it’s the gleam of croc skin, the lift of creepers, or the irreverence of wrinkled leather, this new generation of formal shoes reflects a shift toward individuality. The tuxedo remains, but the rules beneath it have loosened.